Fire and ashes for the masses: Historical narrative of the tortilla de rescoldo in the Biobío basin

Narración histórica alimentaria de la tortilla de rescoldo en la cuenca del Biobío

Abstract

The first results of a heritage research project are presented that addresses the tortilla de rescoldo (burnt tortilla) as a material and symbolic element of cultural fusion, analyzed from the perspective of its production processes, history, cultural relevance, and territorial roots around the Biobío River basin. Despite the tortilla's recognition as a food heritage of Chilean cuisine, it must be understood as an expression of the processes of cultural syncretism developed along the river's course, recognizing rescoldo (a cooking technique with ashes) as an Indigenous heritage on the one hand, and corn dough as part of the Hispanic heritage on the other.

The main objective is to understand the heritage value of the tortilla de rescoldo (burnt tortilla) in the different territories comprising the Biobío River basin, identifying its relational elements and its specific characteristics according to their cultural and territorial context. The study focuses on two key dimensions: the heritage of the ingredients and their production, understood as an expression of Chilean mestizo cuisine, and the symbolic and cultural value that underpins this food practice. The methodology employed is multi-sited ethnography, which, based on historical narrative, seeks to encompass diverse territories and periods within the Biobío Basin from a relational perspective, allowing for an analysis of the territorial, historical, and cultural variations in the production of the tortilla de rescoldo. The findings highlight the coexistence of Indigenous and Spanish traditions, evidencing a cultural syncretism reflected in its ingredients and techniques, within the shared spatiality of the Biobío River basin.